For years I’ve been joking to my wife that, when I passed through León, I would stay at the five-star Hotel Parador. Of course, I did not. …

For years I’ve been joking to my wife that, when I passed through León, I would stay at the five-star Hotel Parador. Of course, I did not. I stayed on a plastic mattress at the Capuchin house. I did have my own room, though, so that was a splurge.